‘I want my makeup to feel light, look glowy and sheer, and basically, just make me look like the best version of myself’.

Unless I’m doing makeup for an editorial, 90% of the time this is what I hear from the person I’m about to make up.  It’s come to be my favorite kind of makeup look to create, in large part because I love watching my clients reaction when I’m finished. Who doesn’t like to make people feel good about themselves? It may be a superficial ‘feel good’ at first, but it seeps in. I watch moods change, frown lines soften, and interactions with others become lighter and more at ease.  Makeup really is transformative, and it doesn’t need to be heavy anywhere on your face, contrary to the heavy eye and brow makeup and pancake face with highlights and lowlights and contour and strobe trend that just won’t seem to go away.

This is what I used for this light and glowing makeup on the beautiful Anna-Christina Schwartz:

Skin:

May Lindstrom Jasmine Garden Facial Mist– the scent is incredible and I use it as much for the aromatherapy for myself, as I do for my clients.

Biossance ‘The Revitalizer’ – a super light squalene moisturizer that’s good for all skin types.

Kjaer Weis Foundation – I use a fluffy eyeshadow brush to gently buff the cream into skin – the smallest amount around her nose, on her forehead, and around her eyes, patting it in with a damp beauty blender.

RMS Living Luminizer – not a surprise, I love to use this coconut oil based highlighter on the cheekbones, along the bridge of the nose, and the cupids bow.
Eyes:

I lined her eyes gently with cream shadow sticks from Ilia Beauty, in a gold/brown called ‘Age of Consent’, and a bit more heavily with ‘You Spin Me Round’ – a dark gray/black shade. I blended them in with a cotton swab so they melted into the lash line – both top and bottom.

Ilia Polka Dots and Moonbeams luminizer – I press this more dense, less emollient (than the living luminizer from RMS) highlighter into the inner corner of eyes to draw attention and make eyes dazzle even more.

I always curl the lashes at least once, focusing on getting that outer corner UP! It really makes eyes stand out. Two or three coats of a very black mascara on top, and one slight coat on the bottom lashes finishes the look.

Brows: Eco Brow in ‘Sharon’ lightly filled in her brows, and I used a cotton swab to ensure no hard edges. I brushed her brows up and held them in place with a little liquid (non-aresol) hairspray from Rahua on a spoolie brush.

Cheeks:

I usually use cream products that I swirl on the apples of the cheeks, but for this look I experimented by mixing a powder blush with a powder bronzer. For this I used ‘Blushing Rose’ and ‘Soft Terracotta’ from Dr. Hauschka and a medium sized fluffy brush.

Lips:

Gressa Skin ‘Bare’ Lip Boost over a bit of balm from R.L Linden. 

You know when you find a product, or a few products from one company, that with barely any effort on your part, make you look GREAT? Great, in the way that everyone who sees you asks if you’ve been on vacation, or if you’re trying something different with your hair… that way in which you look so naturally good and polished that no one can tell what’s different?

Well, Vapour Organic Beauty’s multi-use cheek and lip color has been that for me for quite some time, now.

About two years ago I was lucky enough to receive some of their best selling cheek and lip stains and multi-use cheek and lip colors. I sorted through them, picked out my favorites for me and few friends – all of us with different coloring – and immediately put Courtesan 213 on my cheeks.  I looked like I’d just been in an hour and a half yoga class – alive, glowing, and somehow peaceful and happy. That’s a lot to ask of a cheek color, but I kid you not – that’s how I felt, and as the days (and now, years) have passed, I continue to get that positive reinforcement from those around me when I wear it – so I know it’s true.

I know that many of you are hesitant to use a cream cheek color. I know this because I get emails about it, and people will often ask me when I teach classes or am interviewed for articles: how do I apply it? Will the color stay throughout the day? Will it make me break out?

All great questions, and after many years of using cream cheek colors (from NARS’ multiples to 3-custom color sheer cheek stains, to those from the natural brands that are taking the cosmetic world by storm: RMS, Kjar Weiss, Revolution Organics, Isa’s Restoratives, and of course, Vapour), I know that cheek creams across the board are my personal favorite, both for work and on my own face.

I encourage you to try it on a well moisturized face (but let your moisturizer or oil sink in for a few minutes before applying your cheek color), with clean fingers, and just press the color into the apples of your cheeks – the part that perks up when you smile. Use your fingers or a brush or a sponge to tap and blend so that you can’t see the edge where the color begins to fade off your apples. I often set the cheek color with a sheer application of a corresponding powder blush if I know I (or my client) won’t have a chance to look in the mirror to refresh. That’s the only complaint that I have heard about cream cheek colors -particularly about those from the natural brands – that color tends to fade as the day wears on. My response: it’s a good thing we carry purses! Reapplying is not a bad thing! We should be looking in the mirror half way through the day to see how we’re presenting ourselves to others, no?

On the lovely Chelsea I used a very sheer application of Vapour’s Aura Stain in ‘Impulse’, and I applied it with my fingers to her very well moisturized cheeks, and then I used a brush to blend the edges seamlessly. Impulse is a very intense color and if you apply it from the tube, or more densely with your fingers, you’re going to get a lot of color deposit. My friend came over the other day wearing it as a lipstick and it was amazing – and very intense! It’s all about how you apply it, which is cool because you can personalize it, and create different looks with the same product. Two treats (or more) in one!

I topped off the center of each cheek with the most sheer application (this time applied with a wispy brush) of Vapour’s shimmer cheek color in Whisper. As you may know, I’m not much of a fan of anything with shimmer for real life, but in photo shoots, out at night, and on the red carpet, it can look awesome when applied sparingly, and camera flashes pick it up quite nicely.

One quick story: the day I received the package from Vapour about two years ago was a long and exhausting one, but when I got home from work around 10pm, I couldn’t help but open the bag and start trying everything. By midnight I’d sampled each piece, and I found myself doing something I don’t think I’d ever done before: I looked up one of the creators on Facebook and messaged him to tell him how much I loved the products. I sent him, essentially, a love note, at 1am! After I sent it I thought: he’s going to think I’m looney. Lucky for me, he must be a night owl, because I got the nicest message in response from him – at 2:30am!  Since then, I’ve had the pleasure to have spent time with the co-founder and formulator, Kristine Keheley. She’s one of those women who knows everything about ingredients, knows how to explain what she knows for the average person,and is both scientist and artist.

It makes me feel so good to have respect for, and actually like the folks behind the brands I use.

My first introduction to ILIA lipsticks happened last year while poking around ABC’s apothecary section (I think that ABC, in NYC, is one of the most well edited, well curated stores, both in content and aesthetic.) In addition to a ton of beautiful things for the home, they carry the best of the best when it comes to non-toxic hair/face/body products. When you’re in NYC you have to check it out. It’s beautiful, you’ll want to own everything, and you’ll be bummed that so much is so expensive. That said, these well designed, sleek little silvery tubed lipsticks caught my eye, and were reasonably priced compared to other high-end lipstick lines. When I gave one a try on the back of my hand, I was surprised to find how well pigmented the color was, and how smoothly it went on. The only down side was that there were only 6 or 7 different shades available.

I came home and wrote to the ‘info’ email address from the ILIA website and asked some questions. Almost immediately I got really thorough answers back from owner and creator, Sasha Plavsic (who hails from Canada, but now calls LA home). She explained to me that she’s learned  a cosmetic can still be completely non-toxic, even though it contains a very small percentage of synthetic color.  Synthetic doesn’t mean bad for us, just as all-natural isn’t always good for us.  Without allowing for that teeny percentage of synthetic pigment, she explained, there’s no way to achieve the rich intensity of the colors we love in favorite lipsticks from MAC, NARS, and Tom Ford, to name a few. So the base into which she mixes the color is all-natural, organic, super nourishing, healthy for the lips and perfectly healthy for the rest of you – which is important since we all eat and absorb our lipsticks into our bodies every day.

Sasha worked diligently to create a product that would meet the Environmental Working Group’s strict guidelines (if you aren’t familiar with the EWG, please check them out.) They are highly informative and influential as an online encyclopedia for ingredients found in cosmetics and rates their levels of toxicity. I will absolutely write about them in their own post this month, and found a way to offer all the intensity of bold colors like orange, pink, and red, that have been missing thus far from all-natural lines. Then Sasha put them in great-looking containers. I’m a sucker for packaging, and this woman knows what she’s doing, with her strong background in design and marketing within the branding world.

The best news ever is that ILIA just launched a new collection, complete with 14 lip colors – 6 are highly pigmented, and the other 8 are still well pigmented tinted lip conditioners.  I’ve been wearing ‘Nobody’s Baby’  and ‘In My Room’ the past few days, which look like my lips, but better. I also love the hot pink lipstick shade ‘Neon Angel’. In addition Sasha’s also come out with some cheek tints and highlighter creams in a tube that look wonderful. (highlighter creams are for cheekbones, eyelids, bridge of the nose, cupids bow, etc.)  I’ll give them a try over the next few weeks and report back.

Finally, I really love her no-color lip balm. It’s one of my new favorites for sure.

My only request: ILIA, can you work on coming out with a a bright orange-red for your next edition?  I’d proudly wear it every day.

*note about the photo above: this is how much of a beauty product nerd I am – I got the products from ILIA on Friday around 6 and I decided to call off my plans that night so I could stay home and play with them, and play with taking pictures of them for the blog. Don’t they photograph beautifully?  Thanks, ILIA!!!

ILIA is sold at a good number of locations across the country and around the world (GO ILIA, GO!), see here for specifics as well as online at www.spiritbeautylounge.com