Susan is one of those women who is constantly busy doing interesting things, with interesting people, for interesting causes. I always learn something about the humanitarian efforts around town and around the world when I see her. I can’t say I’ve learned how to be a great ping pong player since I’ve known her, but I have tried my hand at it while at her well-known ping pong club, Spin.

One thing I have learned (through some trial and error, I’ll admit) is to use about 80% cream makeup products on Susan, relying on powder only for eyeshadow – which is always blended well and smeared along the edge with my finger or a q-tip -and the teeniest little bit of translucent powder on her T-zone to set her foundation. This months’ Allure Magazine has a great article complete with makeup tips and tricks from makeup artists on how to look your most youthful, which aren’t really applicable to the youngest models with whom I work, but for anyone in their very late twenties on up, I think these are some good rules to follow.  I see Susan again next week and I’ll try to do a different look on her and blog about it soon, complete with a product shopping list. Did I mention that my mom and Susan bear a striking resemblance to one another?

This is what I used on Susan in the picture above:

Darphin Organic Jasmine Aromatic Care Oil (Smells delicious!)

Darphin Predermine Densifying Anti-Wrinkle Cream for Normal Skin (seals in the oil I just applied)

(I allow the above to settle into the skin for a few minutes before starting the foundation)

 Armani Face Fabric Foundation, SPF 12, This stuff will not settle into fine lines. I apply it very sparingly  – starting in the middle of her face and tapering off the further I get from the center – first with Armani’s natural bristle foundation brush, and then lightly tapped into perfect submission with the Beauty Blender, a perfectly textured and shaped sponge (that was just thoroughly soaked and squeezed dry in a towel)

MAC eyeliner in Teddy – one of the best in brown/black/gold (smudge-able and long wearing). Drawn along both top and bottom lashes and dotted inside the lash line, and then smudged with a thin synthetic brush to create no hard edges.

Lancome Color Design Quad Eye Shadow in Showstopper Style (this is the best set of shadows I’ve found that works well on so many different skin tones). I generally don’t use the lightest shimmery shadow in this quad (four different eyeshadow colors in one palette) on women over 45, as the highlight in the corner of the eye often looks overdone. Instead I use the tan shimmer all over her lid but not above the crease, as well as very softly under the bottom lashes before the liner, smudged with a q-tip.

Lancome Color Design Sensational Effects Eye Shadow Smooth Hold Matte in Mochaccino, which is a soft taupe-brown, which I use lightly along the outer edge of the lashes and gently fade towards the outer corner of her lid

Cover Girl Lash Blast Mascara in Very Black – enough to seriously coat the upper lashes

Kjaer Weis Cream Blush in Blossoming (one of the most incredible all natural  – 95% organic – makeup lines on the market. added bonus: beautiful refillable containers) I like to apply with a soft synthetic brush and then blend with the sponge in small taps.

Laura Mercier Lip Liner in Baby Lips – I first line her lips, and then fill them in with the pencil to help the color stay longer and appear more intensely.

Laura Mercier Creme Lip Colour in Tea Rose

Dr. Haushka Lip Balm in a pot, applied on top for a little added shine without any of the stickiness or reflectiveness sometimes inherent in lipgloss.

I’m new to working with this beauty. I loved how other makeup artists painted her up for last year’s Screen Actors Guild Awards and for the Golden Globes, and I wanted to make sure the makeup I gave her held up to their  high level of artistry. So far this week none of the public appearances I’ve readied her for have been quite so glamorous, but I work from the mindset that no matter what my client is going out to do, they’re going to walk out that door looking incredible.

This makeup look is from an event the Mad Men cast attended last night, and it’s pretty simple: liquid and gel black liner, lots of mascara, a perfectly flushed cheek and a pink/rosey lip bring a soft edge of femininity to this look that’s complete with slicked back hair, a boxy-shouldered Helmut Lang blazer and grey leather skinny pants.

What’s most stand out to me is just how radiant her complexion is – she’s neither shiny nor matte – and appears to glow from within. Granted, the lighting was pretty great in this photo, which isn’t always the case in these kinds of ‘okay, line up celebrities, we’re going to take a million pictures of you at this event now’ photos, and sometimes I’m devastated by the way a makeup look that appeared flawless in person looks in some of the red carpet images I see the following day. However, with January, a large part of that comes from the beauty she has within – I can tell you that with certainty – but just in case you were wondering, here’s what I used to get her skin to reflect that inner radiance:

Tata Harper 100% Natural Hydrating Floral Essence: This spray smells incredible and is infused with scents straight out of a flower garden… the one at Tata’s farm in Vermont! The scent of jasmine, tangerine and grapefruit add to the intoxicating aroma, and the hyaluronic acid (don’t be scared of the word acid – this kind of acid is really beneficial!) make it great for retaining moisture. It’s good for use on your entire body as well as your hair, and I often spritz it all over myself instead of/in addition to wearing perfumed oil.

Tata Harper Replenishing Nutrient: This really light, super fragrant blend of oils is one of my top favorites of all time. I have yet to encounter someone who doesn’t love it. I won’t go into all the good stuff it imparts in your skin here – I’ll save that for another post, but for now, just know that oils like this are rare (one of my other three favorite face oils right now is one from Kahina Giving Beauty ,and I used it on her today and her skin loved it, as well). When you use a face oil, just like when you use as a serum, make sure you take the time to really – but gently – massage it into your skin. Try to forget they’re your own hands and pretend you’re getting a spa treatment!

Tata Harper Reparative Moisturizer: Once the Replenishing Nutrient Oil had been absorbed, I gently added a little touch of this light, fragrant lotion to January’s skin to hold in all the moisture.

One thing that I love about Tata’s line is that she uses no preservatives, so there are no nasty extra’s you don’t need getting in the way of all the good stuff. What that does mean, however, is that you MUST abide by the use-by date on any product that has an emulsifier in it – i.e. the moisturizers and serums. That means enjoy using your products every day and don’t be stingy and think you can make a bottle last longer than advised- your face won’t benefit nearly as much!

Now I acknowledge that this isn’t a skincare line for someone who’s on a tight budget, but it’s definitely one of the best – and i don’t just mean that it’s one of the best on the natural beauty market – i mean it’s one of the very best on the skin care market as a whole, with Tata overseeing everything that goes in to her products (read her story here), and also, it’s your face – something you present to the world every single day, and the skin on your face goes through a whole heck of a lot with all the talking, laughing, yawning, crying, and sneezing we do, let alone all of the harsh elements it comes in contact with, and the way we don’t always eat or drink what we should (regardless of what products you slather yourself with, if you don’t eat or drink healthfully, your skin will likely show it). Don’t worry, though, there are less expensive lines that are working hard to compete, and I’ll post about some of them in future entries. I promise!

Now back to January: Don’t you agree – she’s glowing?

Earlier this week I went over to Christy’s place to do her makeup for the premier of the all-star cast film called ‘Friends With Kids’, featuring her husband, Ed Burns. The last few times I’ve done her makeup we’ve gone with bronze skin and nude lips. Not this time.

Christy’s involvement with all things supporting the advancement of the status of women around the world – particularly through her organization Every Mother Counts (EMC) – is really inspiring to me. We discussed her upcoming trip to India with EMC, the seriously amazing list of singers who’ll be lending their voices to EMC’s newest benefit CD, and when we were deciding which outfit she would be wearing to the premier (I love this navy dress by Stella McCartney that she chose), we started discussing my blog, and tweeting, and Christy (a twitter expert) asked if I’d heard of ‘Rock the Lips‘, a group of women who came together to help empower women all over the world to help each other through the offering of micro loans. I was excited to hear about their mission as well as their suggestion that on International Women’s Day (which is March 8th), all women ‘rock a red lip’ in solidarity. We decided to honor IWD – and this exciting program – a few days early.

I didn’t have my entire lipstick kit with me (you wouldn’t believe how heavy a bag of 50 or 60 lipsticks can be!), but I knew I had a number of my favorite reds. After Christy settled on the dress, I knew the lip that would look the best would have a crisp edge, be as intensely pigmented as possible, and have a slight emollience to it. A well-hydrated, lightly exfoliated lip is of utmost importance when it’s going to be painted a pretty red. I was not the least bit surprised to find Christy’s in perfect condition.  Applying the color in layers and with different textured products, really keeps the lip looking good longer (my grandmother taught me this). The order of the products I used is just as important as the products themselves.

Here we go:

• I hydrated with a very small amount of Dr Haushka’s lip balm from the pot. I pressed the balm into her lips with my fingers and then had her lightly kiss a tissue to remove any excess.
• I filled in her entire lip with Josie Maran’s Magic Marker Lip and Cheek Stain in Flamenco – an intense cherry red
• I outlined her lips with MAC lipliner in Brick and lightly filled in the rest of her lips with the liner and then had her press her lips together a few times to really mash in the color
• I finished the look with Dolce and Gabbana’s moisturizing lipstick in Incognito, which has a hint of orange. I often apply lipsticks with my finger for a softer look, but instead I used a lip brush for a more precise and dense application, full of luster.

Here’s a pic that Vogue.com ran from the after-party. (Ed is much cuter in person than in this picture. Christy, however, looks incredible.)

There’s been a lot of buzz about lip stains over the past few years. I love them for times when I’m not going to be with my client, after our initial hour together, to check that her lipstick hasn’t smudged or faded. You can use them with a lip balm, allowing just their color to show, or layer a lipstick over top for increased intensity of color.

On two separate occasions last week I used a lip stain from Josie Maran called Jitterbug. Both days Julianne was wearing a black top so I thought it would be fun to brighten up the look with a great, vibrant lip color. We loved how it looked so much that we decided to use it again the next day. I love putting hot pink on a pale, pinky-skin-tone’d redhead. Jitterbug is a really intensely bright hot pink, and the beauty blog world was all a-buzz with commentary on how great she looked wearing it.

Using a lip stain requires some prep that you’re likely not used to if you normally wear a lipstick or gloss. These steps are very important, or you’ll lose both the beauty, as well as the effectiveness of the product.

1. Gently exfoliate your lips prior to application. This should be done EVERY day (another post will follow on this because it’s so often overlooked, and really so necessary). The quick and easy way to do this is towards the end of your shower, use a washcloth, a soft toothbrush, or even the pads of your fingers to gently remove the dead, scaly skin that collects on the lips. EVERYONE should do this – men, too.  When I go to get someone ready to walk the red carpet I start our session with a lip exfoliation by handing them an organic baby wipe and having them rub it gently in small circular motions over their lips.
2. Generously apply a NON-PETROLEUM lip balm. This is where I stand on the whole lip balm thing: petroleum and petrolatum do a great job sealing in moisture if it’s there already. However, most of us have dry lips and need to add moisture, rather than just sealing the skin. (Plus, do you know where petroleum comes from? Yuck. That’ll be for another post, as well). Choose a lip balm that’s formulated with shea butter, beeswax, honey, or any other natural oil – anything natural that will absorb and hydrate is what makes sense to me.  Don’t you notice that when you use a lip balm with a petroleum base, you have to reapply just as soon as that slick feeling goes away? Your lips deserve better!
3.  Very important: Once the non-petroleum lip balm has had a few minutes to absorb, kiss the back of your hand, or a tissue (or give it to another set of dry lips via a kiss), and remove any trace of it.
4.  There are two styles (in my opinion) to lip stain application.
   a. For a more natural look: Start staining the center of the lips and then fade towards the edges.
   b. For a more deliberate, constructed look, outline the lips (you can even give yourself a little extra help along the edges if you want a more full look, particularly on the cupids bow and along the top edge) and then fill in the center.
   Be careful to stay within the lines since these pigments really do stain.
5. Finish with a lip balm that you’ll put in your pocket and reapply as needed. You can also choose to use a gloss if you want more shine.
6. Enjoy touch-up free, kissable lips, with color that lasts for hours and hours!

Side note: I like Josie Maran’s lip stain line because the colors are intense, they’re not tested on animals, they’re paraben-free, they’re fragrance-free, and the packaging is mostly recyclable.

Side note #2: If you accidentally get the lip stain coated with lip balm it will clog up the felt tip. If this happens, gently press the tip into a slightly damp, warm wash cloth. It should do the trick.

Side note #3: The only drawback is that the few formulations I’ve tried have dried out within the tube/pen container thing pretty quickly, making them one of those items you use a few times and then return to find it too dried up to use again. Maybe there’s a trick I’m missing to bring them back to life that’s not listed on any website?